Tuesday, 02 January 2024 12:17 GMT

Inside Fashion's New Wave Of Quiet, Intelligent Luxury


(MENAFN- Khaleej Times)

For decades‭, ‬the luxury fashion world has been shaped by a storied few‭ ‬-‭ ‬Chanel‭, ‬
Louis Vuitton‭, ‬Gucci‭, ‬Dior‭ ‬-‭ ‬names so embedded in the public imagination that their mere mention evoked a sense of prestige and permanence‭. ‬But as the rhythm of fashion accelerates and consumer priorities shift‭, ‬a quiet but unmistakable changing of the guard is underway‭. ‬Today‭, ‬a new‭ ‬wave of brands‭ ‬-‭ ‬Loewe‭, ‬Miu Miu‭, ‬Alaïa‭, ‬The Row‭, ‬Khaite‭, ‬Jacquemus‭, ‬Magda Butrym‭, ‬Savette‭, ‬and Polène‭ ‬-‭ ‬is redefining what luxury looks and feels like‭.‬

The Rise of Intelligent Luxury

What sets this new wave of brands apart is not innovation for its own sake‭, ‬but a deeper sense of purpose in design and a more nuanced approach to style‭. ‬They prioritise craftsmanship over clout and individual expression over loud branding‭. ‬Today's luxury consumers‭ ‬-‭ ‬especially millennials and Gen Z‭ ‬-‭ ‬are less interested in flashy logos and more drawn to pieces that feel personal and curated‭.‬

Take Loewe‭. ‬Under Jonathan Anderson‭, ‬the Spanish house has become a cerebral and tactile force in fashion‭. ‬The Puzzle and Squeeze bags are sculptural expressions of modern design‭, ‬blending utility with artistry‭. ‬Loewe's runway shows are immersive‭, ‬fusing art‭, ‬performance‭, ‬and narrative‭. ‬Anderson isn't just keeping up with trends‭ ‬-‭ ‬he's setting them‭.‬

Miu Miu‭, ‬once seen as Prada's younger sibling‭, ‬has staged a bold comeback‭. ‬Its micro minis‭, ‬ballet flats‭, ‬and gender-fluid silhouettes strike a balance between editorial flair and everyday wearability‭. ‬Miu Miu resonates because it captures the cultural moment with precision‭, ‬never resorting to clichés‭.‬

Alaïa‭, ‬under Pieter Mulier‭, ‬continues Azzedine Alaïa's legacy of empowering women through refined minimalism‭. ‬Structured bodices‭, ‬sweeping coats‭, ‬and sculptural heels showcase how restraint can be revolutionary‭. ‬In a world of oversized streetwear‭, ‬Alaïa's sharp tailoring feels bold and necessary‭.‬

Made in America‭ ‬-‭ ‬And Making Waves Abroad

In the US‭, ‬the luxury movement has found two distinct voices in The Row and Khaite‭. ‬The Row‭, ‬created by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen‭, ‬was initially met with polite curiosity‭ ‬-‭ ‬celebrity-turned-designer efforts rarely inspire lasting confidence‭. ‬But over the years‭, ‬the Olsen twins have done what few could‭: ‬build a brand that's whispered about in reverent tones in fashion circles worldwide‭. ‬The Row has become a standard-bearer for‭ ‬“quiet luxury”‭ ‬long before it was a hashtag‭. ‬The fabrics are obsessive in their quality‭, ‬the silhouettes monastic in their restraint‭, ‬the tailoring almost devotional‭. ‬There are no logos‭, ‬no gimmicks‭ ‬-‭ ‬just pure‭, ‬uncompromising refinement‭. ‬It's the clothing of women who have nothing to prove and everything to protect‭. ‬Among its most iconic offerings is the Margaux bag‭ ‬-‭ ‬a soft‭, ‬structured tote that has become a global status symbol not because it shouts luxury‭, ‬but because it exudes it‭. ‬With its‭ ‬refined silhouette‭, ‬supple leather‭, ‬and barely-there branding‭, ‬the Margaux has quietly become the handbag of those in the know‭.‬‭ ‬It's carried not for attention‭, ‬but for intention‭ ‬-‭ ‬and that‭ ‬is The Row's entire philosophy in a single accessory‭.‬

Khaite‭, ‬led by Catherine Holstein‭, ‬brings a sharper edge to the dressing room‭. ‬Its denim‭, ‬knits‭, ‬and outerwear feel architectural yet wearable‭ ‬-‭ ‬luxurious‭, ‬but never loud‭. ‬These are clothes for women who value purpose‭ ‬
and poise‭.‬

Jacquemus adds a playful spirit to this movement‭. ‬Simon Porte Jacquemus stages dreamy shows in lavender fields and coastal backdrops‭. ‬But beyond the visuals lies a designer with a serious‭, ‬distinctive vision‭. ‬His tailoring is sharp‭, ‬his silhouettes original‭. ‬It's a brand full of warmth‭, ‬charm‭, ‬and clarity‭.‬

Accessories Speak Louder Than Words

While ready-to-wear commands attention‭, ‬this revolution is perhaps most visible in accessories‭. ‬Polène‭, ‬a Paris-based brand‭, ‬has‭ ‬carved a niche with minimalist and sculptural handbags like the Numéro Un and Numéro Neuf‭. ‬Made in Spain with care and precision‭, ‬they offer timeless appeal for the modern woman‭.‬

In New York‭, ‬Savette is gaining ground‭. ‬Founded by Amy Zurek‭, ‬a former‭ ‬Vogue‭ ‬and The Row alum‭, ‬the brand combines vintage elegance with contemporary restraint‭. ‬With structured leathers and geometric closures‭, ‬Savette's bags are made to last‭ ‬-‭ ‬both in terms of quality and style‭.‬

Magda Butrym‭, ‬though under-the-radar‭, ‬deserves mention‭. ‬Her collections marry‭ ‬'80s glamour with modern romance‭ ‬-‭ ‬lace‭, ‬appliqués‭, ‬and bold cuts that channel quiet strength‭. ‬Rooted in Eastern European aesthetics‭, ‬her designs feel both personal and powerful‭.‬

A Shift in Taste and Influence

What drives this change isn't just new names‭, ‬but a new mindset‭. ‬Influence flows laterally now‭ ‬-‭ ‬from stylists‭, ‬editors‭, ‬boutique curators‭, ‬and informed consumers‭. ‬People crave stories‭, ‬not just status‭. ‬They want depth‭, ‬not‭ ‬dazzle‭.‬

The fast pace of trends has left many yearning for something more lasting‭. ‬These new luxury brands meet that need with intention‭ ‬and care‭. ‬They're not just selling products‭ ‬-‭ ‬they're offering perspectives‭.‬

Even the shopping experience is shifting‭. ‬Boutiques now feel more like galleries or salons‭. ‬Loewe's Madrid flagship resembles an art museum‭. ‬Jacquemus's pop-ups offer sensory delight‭. ‬The Row presents a quiet‭, ‬considered moment‭.‬

The old icons‭ ‬-‭ ‬Chanel‭, ‬Dior‭, ‬Louis Vuitton‭ ‬-‭ ‬aren't going anywhere‭. ‬But rising alongside them is a different kind of luxury‭: ‬intelligent‭, ‬introspective‭, ‬and intensely personal‭. ‬One that doesn't demand your attention‭, ‬but earns it through substance‭.‬

In a world that often feels chaotic and loud‭, ‬this new wave of fashion is a gentle‭, ‬deliberate rebellion‭. ‬A reminder that real luxury was never about being seen‭ ‬-‭ ‬it was about being known‭.‬

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